STOP puppy BITING clothes


Hey everybody today I’m going to be
talking about how to teach your puppy not to mouth or bite at your clothing
accessories or your hair. What I’ve already worked on with this pup, I’ve
only had him a few days, is working on the calm settle for food which he’s
doing right now so I can talk to you. Now naturally when I train dogs I never want
to let them rehearse the undesirable behavior so in my videos you’ll never
see the dogs doing the things that they’re not supposed to do. I only show
you the small approximations of how to train the dog what you do want them to
do but in this case because I get a lot of requests of people saying hey how
come you’re never using untrained dogs it’s because when you train with
positive reinforcement it always looks like the dog is already trained because
you’re breaking the steps up small enough that the dog can succeed every
step of the way. So this puppy has never had any training with mouthing and
biting and I will show you that my puppy does mouth and bite at clothing when it
moves around but it’s not very good training to do this. On this rare
occasion I will show the dog rehearsing the undesirable behavior. This is because
the behavior of tugging is one I do want for when playing with tug toys in the
future. Also showing this specific undesirable behavior is not stressful
for this dog. Seeing what the dog does in a situation before training actually
makes the dog more likely to do those behaviors in the future. Instead a
smarter training plan is training in small easily achievable steps where the
dog doesn’t even have a thought to do the undesirable behavior again. As you
can see this is a normal puppy. Puppies naturally want to grab at anything that
moves fast or is dangling like a dress or your hair or some jewelry or this
dish cloth or a sweater sleeve as you’re putting it on. So this is a normal puppy
but you’ll see during the training the puppy is not going to be doing this type
of behavior. The point of this exercise is to teach
the puppy that when things are dangling around it means to ignore them and you
can still play tug with your dog but it’s really important to put that on
a verbal cue like “get it” and always say “get it” before you offer your dog a toy
to tug on so they don’t get the wrong idea that anything that’s dangling in
their face is fair game to be tugged on. In this exercise you can either use a
clicker or a verbal marker. So you can either click and then feed a treat or I
have a nice calm marker, “good”, that means I’m going to slowly deliver the treats
to the puppy like that. The game is pretty simple. You start off with
distractions that are very easy for the puppy to ignore. So with this sweater, for
example, if the puppy’s over here settling or you can have your puppy on a
leash and you could have a helper. The helper is just going to show the sweater
and move it slowly and as you move it you mark and then feed a treat so the
puppy is associating that when the sweater moves and they stay still they
get a click and a treat and basically you’re training the puppy to do nothing
when they see this happen. “good job!” When your puppy is having success you can
start to make things more exciting. So I’m gonna move the sweater past the
puppy like this, “good, good job” I’m gonna dangle my sleeve “good job, good boy” Once
your puppy has mastered settling with the distractions you can now practice
when you and your puppy are standing up and moving which is harder for most
puppies so you’ll need to go back to marking the moment the distraction
happens at first to set your puppy up for success. “good, good, good” When your puppy
looks calm and can easily ignore the distraction you can increase how long
you make the distraction happen before you mark. You can also increase the
difficulty of the distraction. Most puppies find fast erratic movement
harder to resist than slow predictable movement. If you have a puppy that’s
extremely excited about grabbing moving things you can feed the treat AS you
move the thing at first. So I’m moving this thing and feeding the puppy like
that. “good job” And now I’m going to move the leash first and then mark and feed. If your puppy were to grab on to whatever it is that you’re
working with put a high-value treat to your dog’s nose and then start over by
making it much less arousing. Also I have a video on how to train the cue
drop so that you can teach your puppy to let go of things that they start to pick
up or they’re tugging on. You can also use a kissy noise or the recall if you
see your puppy going over to someone else to pull on their shoelaces or to
get their clothing. You can make your kissy noise, attention noise or call your
puppy to you so that your puppy isn’t practicing that behavior. When you see
your puppy get interested in something like someone’s shuffling feet or
shoelaces interrupt your puppy and redirect him to something you do want
him to be doing like playing with his toys. Then make a mental note to work on
that specific distraction in a training session. Here’s a list of the steps: Step 1 mark
as the distraction happens Step 2 mark after the distraction begins Step 3
add more time before you mark Step 4 add difficulty and variety to the training.
For the most successful training you want to work on the distractions before
the puppy is exposed to them in real life. For example, having your kids move
in front of your puppy for the first time in a training session and
reinforcing your puppy for remaining calm as it happens. Beginning first by
having the kids simply walking past your puppy. And now I want to mention that
this video is dedicated to one of my youtube sponsors *Ted Jack*. Because of him
and my other sponsors I’m able to create this material for everyone to learn how
to train dogs without the use of physical or psychological intimidation!
So thank you so much to all my sponsors! See you later guys!

21 thoughts on “STOP puppy BITING clothes

  • I love watching how different trainers tackle this subject. Some popular trainers like to train in the moment for this, but I love how you tackle this before it becomes a habit. I see it everywhere puppy biting hands and clothes. Personally I trained my pup this same way, we never had a biting problem or chewing problem thank goodness! I got very lucky in that aspect.

  • This video covers how to solve puppies mouthing and biting your hands: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dMKR5i9iNQ

  • training a dog to not bit person is most of the time easier than training to not bit clothes, thanks for the great video

  • Brings back memories of when My dog was a puppy. My mother was visiting me & my then puppy chewed through my mother's new & very expensive shoes. I can laugh about it now. (Just not in front of her!!!)
    Thanks for yet another fantastic tutorial & thank you Ted Jack for your support. Absolutely love what you do.

  • What a great video! I had not found this information presented clearly in any other YT-video, this was just what we needed for our puppy right now. Thank you so much!

  • You pay so much attention to these basics.
    I think that's great. It will give many puppies a headstart.
    So many views in only a view days.
    I like all your vids, but this one is special to me. Thanks.

  • This video came at such a perfect time for me. I started following a few years ago when I had my first puppy and now another just fell into my lap! Although I am having clicker issues as the one I have seems too loud but the ones I see in at the store at way too quiet. Is this an issue?

  • thank you very much for this video! you give me inspiration to make a new puppy training video for my channel, thanks again:)

  • I learned this technique from you years ago and it works beautifully. The same idea can be applied in so many scenarios (clicking for not doing something).

  • What kind of treats do you usually use? Looks like boiled chicken? Just trying to figure out what to use with my own puppy.

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