Postcards from Newfoundland and Labrador, documentary

[East Coast MUSIC…] LAURA BAIN: I’m Laura Bain,
AMI presenter from Halifax, Nova Scotia. Lover of food, music,
and getting outdoors. SHELBY TRAVERS: I’m Shelby
Travers, AMI presenter, dog mom– that’s a good Franimal. Makeup lover, and queen of all
things that hails from Ottawa, Ontario. Good girl, Franny. LAURA BAIN: Even though
I’m from the east coast, I’ve never been to
Newfoundland and Labrador and I’ve always wanted to go. SHELBY TRAVERS: I’ve travelled
all over Canada but I’ve never been east of Quebec. LAURA BAIN: I’m interested
in going to Newfoundland and Labrador because
of its distinct culture and friendly people. I can’t wait to
experience it for myself. SHELBY TRAVERS: I
imagine Newfoundland is filled with spirited
people and beautiful scenery and that’s why I’m taking
this journey with Laura, to the rock. LAURA BAIN: Join us as we
explore the rugged landscape– SHELBY TRAVERS: –soak
up the colorful culture CON O’BRIEN: (SINGING) Get
your partner, Sally Tibbo. Get your partner, Sally Brown. LAURA BAIN: –and
discover the unexpected. BRIAN DAY: I do need you
all to pucker up and give this fish a little kiss. SHELBY TRAVERS:
Tongue or no tongue? On this great adventure– LAURA BAIN: –one
we’ll never forget. This is Postcards from
Newfoundland and Labrador. SHELBY TRAVERS: Well, Laura,
Frances, and I have only been in St. John’s Newfoundland
for a short period of time but we knew there was one place
we had to check out first. LAURA BAIN: That’s right. We’re up on top of
Signal Hill, of course, and it’s absolutely gorgeous
up here with the city and the harbour behind us. You can hear the
cars from St. John’s. And we’re excited to get
down there and explore but first we’ve
got some exploring to do up here on Signal Hill. SHELBY TRAVERS: Let’s go to it. Sunset is the perfect time
and Signal Hill is the perfect place to get our first
taste of St. John’s. LAURA BAIN: Signal Hill
offers lots of walking trails and sweeping 365 degree views
of the city and harbour. It’s also a national
historic site, home to the castle like
structure known as Cabot Tower. Cabot tower is the place
where the first transatlantic wireless message was
received in 1901. SHELBY TRAVERS: I’m thrilled to
come across a Newfoundland dog and introduce Frances. Oh my God, you’re huge. There are five
kilometers of trails to hike around Signal Hill. But we decide to save our
energy for the downtown. LAURA BAIN: St.
John’s it’s like a mix of a big city and a small town. It’s hilly and dense, but it
has a very walkable downtown. SHELBY TRAVERS: The famous
jellybean coloured houses are everywhere. They are also lots
of street murals and narrow lanes with
staircases linking streets. LAURA BAIN: The first
stop on our adventure in downtown St. John’s O’Brien’s
Music Store on Water Street. We meet up with
owner, Dave Rowe. DAVE ROWE: Hello, I’m Dave. Welcome to O’Brien’s. LAURA BAIN: Oh,
thanks, I’m Laura. SHELBY TRAVERS: I’m Shelby. And I also got my
guide dog, Frances. DAVE ROWE: Oh, great. Well, hello, Frances. Do you guys want to
come in and check out a few local instruments? LAURA AND SHELBY: Yeah. LAURA BAIN: Sounds great. DAVE ROWE: All right. My family, the O’Briens,
we’ve been in this building in business since 1906. But we’ve actually been
a music store since 1939. That’s when my grandfather
took over the property and started to
sell musical goods. He had a passion for
music and a passion for Newfoundland culture. And now I’m the third
generation owner and I do my best
to keep that going. LAURA BAIN: Dave offers
me a private lesson on the accordion. DAVE ROWE: So, Laura,
if you’re going to learn something
about Newfoundland music it’s really got to start
with the button accordion. It is probably the
quintessential Newfoundland instrument. LAURA BAIN: Oh, excellent. I’m really excited. I actually love the
accordion and I have no idea how to play it and I’ve got
this absolutely beautiful, sparkling, red one on my lap. And you got one
there too, right? DAVE ROWE: Yes, this is an older
one but they’ll work together. They are different from
the piano accordion. It doesn’t have a
piano keyboard but it has a few rows of buttons
instead of piano keys. And another big differences
is for each button you have two different notes
as opposed to a piano accordion where you have one. Well, I can give you
a quick breakdown of how it works if you’d like. LAURA BAIN: Yeah, for sure. DAVE ROWE: OK. So you’ve already used your
air valve on your left hand. Put a little bit
of air in there. LAURA BAIN: OK, so that just
lets the air in and out? DAVE ROWE: That’s right. Yeah, without making any sound. So you want to put a little
bit of air like that. And I’ll get you
to play a scale. We’re going to put our index
finger on the third button down from the top. LAURA BAIN: On my right side? DAVE ROWE: Yeah,
on your right side. And you’re going to push
the bellows together for your first note
and then you’re going to pull the bellows
apart for your next note. So you want to start on the
first note, on the push, [accordion plays] Pull. Pull on the next. Now, push. Pull, push on the next one. Pull, pull on the next one. Pull push. There you go. LAURA BAIN: Beautiful. SHELBY TRAVERS: That’s a scale. LAURA BAIN: Is that a
G scale I’m playing? DAVE ROWE: Yes. You’re in the key of G there. LAURA BAIN: Nice. DAVE ROWE: That’s a G row. And they work much
like a harmonica. You have one row of keys that
corresponds to one musical key, just like your harmonica
would be in the key of G. LAURA BAIN: Yeah. And what about these
buttons on the left side? DAVE ROWE: Those are your
bass accompaniment buttons. Those are really
one of the reasons why the Newfoundland
accordion caught on so much in Newfoundland. The geography of
our island was such that the population
was dispersed around the coastlines in these
very small fishing villages. So isolation was a major factor
in Newfoundland’s development. And this is a type
of instrument where it’s really a one band in
a box kind of instrument. You can play your melody with
your right hand over here and then you’ve got your
accompanying bass chords on the left. LAURA BAIN: Nice, I like it. DAVE ROWE: And so
a proficient player can play melody and
accompany themselves all on one instrument. So in order to have a dance or
a party and have entertainment, you just really needed
one good accordion player instead of having to have
a group of musicians. Because they could
play the melody and keep the rhythm and the
chords going at the same time. LAURA BAIN: And is it
still pretty popular? Like, in Newfoundland
today, people like the button accordion? DAVE ROWE: Absolutely. It’s one of the button
accordion capitals of the world, I would say. And it’s one of the few
pockets in North America where it’s an incredibly
instrument and far more popular than the
piano accordion. LAURA BAIN: All right, well,
I still need a little bit more practise. I think I’m on my
way but do want to show me a little bit what
this instrument sounds like? DAVE ROWE: Well, there’s far
better players around than me but yes, I’ll play a
little Waltz for you. [plays accordion] LAURA BAIN: Beautiful. DAVE ROWE: Well, Laura,
I hope you enjoyed your little accordion lesson. And I’m going to leave
you to practise there. And I’m going to go
introduce Shelby to are uniquely Newfoundland
instrument. LAURA BAIN: That
sounds great, Dave. Thanks so much and maybe
by the time you get back I’ll be playing a Waltz. DAVE ROWE: OK, we’ll see. [plays accordion] SHELBY TRAVERS: So out
of all the instruments you have in this store,
you gave me an ugly stick. What does that say? DAVE ROWE: Oh, well, it’s
not a comment on you. It’s really a comment
on the stick itself. But this is a unique
Newfoundland instrument that I thought would
be interesting to show. It is a part folk art part
musical instrument-homemade percussion instrument. It’s made from usually
a broomstick or a piece of driftwood and that
has a rubber boot attached to the bottom. So you have a thud
at the bottom. Then there’s bottle caps
attached as jingles. That’s what’s going
to make the sound. They’re attached with wood
screws to the broomstick. And then, of course,
another essential item– you need an empty tin can on
there with some more bottle caps. And of course all the beer
has to be locally drink and hopefully from
local breweries. And at the top we
have here a float from a fishing line with
either a stocking cap or a rain cap on there. And an intentionally ugly
face made on the float there, just for a bit of fun. You know, you’ve got
to be goofy if you’re going to be playing
something like this. SHELBY TRAVERS: That’s the
Newfoundland way, isn’t it? DAVE ROWE: Yes, absolutely. SHELBY TRAVERS: So who
thought about making this? Like, where does the
origins come from? DAVE ROWE: Well,
it’s not attributed to any specific individual. It’s more or less
a folk phenomenon. Just this sort of homemade
instrument this just for fun that’s played at kitchen
parties and shed parties. And it’s not so much a
performance instrument for the stage, it’s really
like, a fun instrument for around the house. SHELBY TRAVERS: And I’ve
also got a stick in my hand. Some sort of wood that’s got
some little cut outs in it. DAVE ROWE: Yes. SHELBY TRAVERS: What is– is this a part of it too? DAVE ROWE: This is. Yeah, this is called a tipper. It’s a little piece of carved
wood, about a foot long. And it’s got those little teeth,
these little ridges carved into it. And those ridges will be
dragged across different parts of the stick. So you’ve got two things
going on here-two motions. Your main stick is going to be
sort of thumping on the ground like you’d tap your foot– SHELBY TRAVERS: Right. DAVE ROWE: –to the beat. And then, the
tipper gets dragged across various parts of the
instrument with your teeth making those ridge sounds. And that goes on the upbeats,
or the in-between beats, of your thump. So just to get started
we’d go with the thumping and then the upbeats going. [playing ugly stick] SHELBY TRAVERS: Well,
that was pretty good. I don’t think I’m
going to be that good. But I guess-yeah, is this
where you’re now going to try and teach me how to play this– DAVE ROWE: Yes. SHELBY TRAVERS: –instrument? DAVE ROWE: Yeah, yeah. SHELBY TRAVERS: All right. DAVE ROWE: If you’re up for it. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah. First step. DAVE ROWE: OK. So the first step, the
instrument will be thud, yeah. That’s right. And now, if you want,
to take your tipper– SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah. DAVE ROWE: –and this is
the little tricky part. You want to hit it in
between your beats. SHELBY TRAVERS: You
already lost me. I already lost it. DAVE ROWE: All right. Let’s try again. We’ll try it once more. So it’ll be– [playing ugly stick] You’re getting there. SHELBY TRAVERS: I never
claimed to have rhythm. That’s just the only thing. So I’m just going to
prove it to people. So I’m going to keep
trying to play it. But I want to hear
you some more. DAVE ROWE: All right. Do you want to hear like really
open it up and get going fast? SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah. Let’s do it. [playing ugly stick] LAURA BAIN: That ugly stick
looked like a lot of fun. How hard was it to play? SHELBY TRAVERS: It
actually was hard. I think it was just because
I’m not that talented. But I could see how it’d
be something that could be a lot of fun to play with. And you just have fun with it. What was the accordion like? LAURA BAIN: Oh my goodness. I am hooked on the
button accordion. I love playing it so much. SHELBY TRAVERS: And
it was just like, they had such a nice energy there. And it’s so cool to see like
a family business that’s gone down for generations. LAURA BAIN: Yeah, definitely. Yeah, Dave was super nice. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yes. Definitely had the
Newfoundland vibe. So I’m glad we got to go. LAURA BAIN: Absolutely. The weather in St. John’s
can be unpredictable. As our first day ends,
the rain hits the harbour. So we head to George
Street, the so claimed most bar populated
street in all of North America. SHELBY TRAVERS: We
drop in on Christian’s, a small packed bar. Here we meet owner,
Brian Day, wearing a Sou’wester, a
traditional black, oil skin rain hat and holding a
boat paddle as he presides over a traveller’s rite of
passage, the screech-in. BRIAN DAY: Hear ye,
hear ye, hear ye. Let’s bring the royal order
of screech-in to order. I understand we’ve
got a whole bunch that want to get screeched
in tonight and become right proper honorary
Newfoundlanders. Yes? SHELBY TRAVERS: Hell, yeah. BRIAN DAY: The idea
of this ceremony is to try to teach you all a
little bit about Newfoundland. When all is said
and done, you’re going to be called
honorary Newfoundlanders. LAURA BAIN: Brian
kicks off the ceremony by serving some flame
fried Bologna, a.k.a. Newfoundland’s steak. BRIAN DAY: I do need everybody
to take a small piece of Newfoundland steak. Do not worry about it
if you’re a vegetarian, there’s not really much
meat in this anyway. We’re going to
start with Shelby. SHELBY TRAVERS: Oh, my gosh. Thank you. BRIAN DAY: OK. And Laura. SHELBY TRAVERS: Then, it’s
time for a Newfoundland history lesson. BRIAN DAY: In 1497, John
Cabot sailed the Atlantic on his boat, The Matthew, all
the way from Bristol, England to Bonavista Bay. And when he arrived, he saw
lots of activity in our water. Now, we didn’t
know what was going on but he dropped his bucket
down to fill it up with water. And when it came up to
the top of the boat, it was filled right to
the brim with codfish. Now, word got out fast how
plentiful the fish were in our waters that they
travelled from all over to settle here and to catch
the fish and to salt to fish and to trade the fish all
around the world as a means of survival. In one place in particular
that we traded with was with Jamaica. Because in Jamaica,
they make rum. And we loved rum. We loved it so much we would
actually get down on that wharf and we would kiss
that fish goodbye knowing that it was coming
back to us in the way of rum. So in keeping with that
time and honoured tradition, I do have a little buddy. LAURA BAIN: There’s
your boyfriend, Shelby. BRIAN DAY: This– SHELBY TRAVERS:
Finally found one. BRIAN DAY: –is a real
Newfoundland codfish. Given the chance– SHELBY TRAVERS:
Love at first sight. BRIAN DAY: –that
this fish have grown the height of six feet tall and
weighed as much as 130 pounds. This fish will not grow any more
than this because it’s dead. [laughter] It’s frozen and it fits
perfectly in my freezer. I do need you all to
pucker up and give this fish a little kiss. SHELBY TRAVERS:
Tongue or no tongue? BRIAN DAY: Aren’t
you girls French? [laughter] LAURA BAIN: The next
step in our ceremony is a shot of
Newfoundland screech. BRIAN DAY: Screech
got its name down on the south coast
of our province where one night we were serving
up our hospitality to a US captain and he drank the
shot and he yelled out a great big yell. And a sergeant came on running
into the room and he said, who yelled out that
God awful screech? And there was a
Newfoundlander who was sitting at the bar
that said, screech boy. Tis the room, me son. And that’s how
screech got his name. I would like to have a toast for
those of you who didn’t know I did have the honour of
screeching in and meeting Anthony Bourdain
back in October. It was televised on CNN
on his show Parts Unknown. I would like to dedicate
my toast to him. Here’s to health and your
company and one for the lasses. Let’s drink and be merry
all lot of our glasses. Let’s drink and be merry,
that’s the refrain. For we may or may not
ever all be here again. Up to lips, over the gums. Look out gullet, her she comes. Clutch your back. MALE BAR PATRON: Cheers. BRIAN DAY: So when you go
back home and they ask you– when you went to Newfoundland
and got screeched in, they’re going to ask
you, is ye a screecher? There’s only one proper
response for that and that is, deed I use me old and long
may your big jib draw. So is ye a screecher? Ssh, ssh. FEMALE BAR PATRON: Am I? BRIAN DAY: Yeah! Maybe in the rest of Canada
you might say, indeed I am. But in Newfoundland
we say, deed I is. I need you all to say, deed
I is at the count of three. 1, 2, 3. ALL: Deed I is. BRIAN DAY: The next part of
the phrase is, me old cock. Cock is a shortened form
of the word “cockney,” which comes over from old
England meaning, my good friend or my good buddy. What you’re saying is,
yes I am, my good friend. But you’re going to say,
deed I is me old cock. At the count of three– 1, 2, 3. ALL: Deed I is me old cock. BRIAN DAY: Last
part of the phrase is, and long may
your big jib draw. You see, the jib is the
foresail sale and the schooner. So as long as it’s dry
and wind, you’re not only go to wish for good luck. What you’re saying
is yes, I’m going to go and wish you good luck. You’re going to say, deed I
is me old cock and long may your big jib draw. Got it? I’m going to say it,
you’re going to say it. We’re going to get through
it in three simple segments. OK? I say it then, you say it. Say “deed I is.” ALL: Deed I is. BRIAN DAY: “Me old cock.” ALL: Me old cock. BRIAN DAY: And long
may your big jib draw. ALL: And long may
your big jib draw. BRIAN DAY: I now declare you
all honorary Newfoundlanders. Yes. [cheering] Now, I have
certificates for you. Welcome to Newfoundland, girls. Shelby, Lauren, wicked. Your rock. LAURA BAIN: Well, Shelby,
you seemed pretty in to it when you were
kissing that codfish. How was your screech-in? SHELBY TRAVERS: I think, yeah,
that’s going to be the best kiss I’m ever going to get. And everyone was
super, super friendly and that was really fun. What’d you think? LAURA BAIN: Oh, it was great. I’m glad to be officially
a Newfoundlander. Let me see if I
can get this right. Deed I is, me old cock and
long may your big jib draw. SHELBY TRAVERS: There you go. [music playing] LAURA BAIN: You can’t be
an honorary Newfoundlander and not go out on the water. So we head to Bay Bull’s
Harbour for our next adventure. SHELBY TRAVERS: I’m standing in
front of the beautiful Atlantic Ocean at O’Brien’s boat tours. Laura and I are ready to head
onto the boat to experience some icebergs, puffins, whales. We’ll see. LAURA BAIN: It’s absolutely
gorgeous here in Bay Bull’s. It reminds me of a lot
of fishing communities that I’ve seen in Nova
Scotia, where I’m from. And it’s a perfect day
to get out on the water. It’s warm, it’s sunny. You can smell the ocean. SHELBY TRAVERS:
Laura, Frances, and I grab a spot at the bow on
the top deck of the boat. It’s the perfect place to
experience my first boat ride on the Atlantic Ocean. CON O’BRIEN: Welcome
aboard the Atlantic Puffin. Welcome to Bay
Bull’s, Newfoundland. My name is Con, spelled
C-O-N. I am your tour guide. LAURA BAIN: It turns
out Con O’Brien is a member of the
award winning folk group, The Irish Descendants. And as we head out of the
harbour he gets everyone singing. CON O’BRIEN: (SINGING) Hip
your partner, Sally Tibbo. Hip your partner, Sally Brown. Foggo, Twillingate,
Morton’s Harbour. All around the circle. SHELBY TRAVERS: After the
song we run into some waves just as Laura gets
her camera out. LAURA BAIN: Whoo! [laughing] Oh, my God. SHELBY TRAVERS: We’re getting
a good ab workout, right? Trying to be stable. LAURA BAIN: Totally. SHELBY TRAVERS:
While Laura and I are struggling to stay upright,
Frances decides to take a nap. LAURA BAIN: Thankfully,
things calm down the further out we get. CON O’BRIEN: Well, we’re
going to a marvellous place. If you’re like nature,
we’re going to take you to a spectacular place. We’re headed off to a place
that’s called the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve. LAURA BAIN: The reserve
contains four islands. It’s home to
millions of seabirds, including the largest colony
of puffins in North America. SHELBY TRAVERS: The Atlantic
puffin is the provincial bird. They’re small,
about 6 to 8 inches and they fly fast and low. I see, I think, black birds. LAURA BAIN: Yeah, there’s
some kind of birds out there. Once the boat slows
down I’m able to take some video of the thousands
of birds nesting in the cliffs and filling the skies around us. SHELBY TRAVERS: Oh, the
water is a beautiful colour. LAURA BAIN: It is. SHELBY TRAVERS:
Sadly, we don’t run across any icebergs or whales,
just lots and lots of birds. CON O’BRIEN: (SINGING)
Well, I’m going to marry Mary for when
Mary’s taking care of me we’ll all be feeling merry
when I marry Mary Mack. LAURA BAIN: A
final song from Con brings us back into Harbour. CON O’BRIEN: (SINGING) She’s
the girl I’m gonna track. A lot of other fellows say
they get upon her track. I’d be lying, think they
have to get up early. LAURA BAIN: The boat
tour was a lot of fun. I’m all bundled up in
my winter hat and gloves because I got a little
cold out at sea. But we were bouncing around
and the waves are splashing. I got to see some birds
and certainly hear them. It was a great time. I would definitely,
definitely love to come back and do this again. SHELBY TRAVERS: So we
just got back to shore. Feel’s so good. Slightly nauseous. One thing I did
learn and experience is that my hair
and wind sometimes don’t go so well together. So it’s a little bit messy now. It was so much fun though. I had a blast with the waves. Just feels good to
be on the water. Didn’t really get to
experience much wildlife but that’s part of
the blind problem. And Frances kicked butt. It was another situation
where she just was amazing. [music playing] Back in St. John’s, I
decide I need to take a rest and recover. So I skip the afternoon
activities Laura and I had planned. LAURA BAIN: While
Shelby be takes a break, I head out on my own
to St. Mary’s Bay where I meet up with traditional
singer, Matthew Byrne. Hey, Matthew. It’s great to meet you. MATTHEW BYRNE: Laura,
nice to meet you too. Come on in. LAURA BAIN: Awesome. I absolutely love
Matthew’s music. I’m a bit of a musician myself
and I’m really looking forward to sitting down with
him and having a chat and having him play
some tunes for me. [MUSIC MATTHEW BYRNE, “BARQUE
the barque in the Harbour I went roaming on shore. Stepped in to a pub where
I’d oft times before. And as I sat again plain
enjoying my glass, who should chance to walk in but
a young Spanish lass. “The Barque in the Harbour” is a
song I recorded on my first CD. I learned it from
my father and it’s a British broadside ballad
that would have made its way to Newfoundland I
don’t know, probably a couple of hundred years ago. (SINGING) Saying sir, you’re a
stranger not long to this land. Won’t you roam, Johnny
Sailor roam long with me? Too some lonesome spot
where no female can see? My love of tradition
music all comes down to the language and
the storytelling combined with the beautiful
melodies, you know? And I’m a sucker for
stories, you know? I love stories and I think
people everywhere love stories. (SINGING) In a neat little home. She’s brisk, plump, and
jolly and her age scarce 19. And the name of that
Spaniard I think was Irene. On a fine summer’s morning
our ship she did sail. And was down by the seashore
lovely Irene she came. Waving her pocket handkerchief
and wiping her eyes. Don’t you leave
me, Johnny Sailor, were the words she did cry. I’m the person who kind of
re-imagines and reinterprets traditional music that I– comes to mean kind of two ways. Having grown up in a
singing family and a family of traditional singers
and song finders, I’ve inherited a lot
of traditional songs. And I’ve kind of delved
into the family repertoire. I’m always finding
new songs, you know? Especially from my mother
and my grandparents. Growing up that way, it
also kind of fills you with a thirst for going out
and finding songs as well, you know? And so I’m always on the lookout
for new old songs, you know? (SINGING) I’ll bid
you farewell, love, on a fine summer’s breeze. But, love, don’t forget
me when crossing the seas. I love interpreting those songs
and kind of reversioning them in such a way where
I can kind of keep what’s beautiful
about them originally and what made them a great
song in the first place. But also try to do something
to them, either with my style or with my guitar
playing or with my arrangement, that will
help them fall on new ears. (SINGING) You are married
enjoying your bride, just think on the young
Spaniard who lay by your side. Traditional music in
Newfoundland, I think, has historically been a
really, really important part of our identity, you know? And I think it’s
been a way for– going back many,
many years it’s been a way for people in Newfoundland
to kind understand who they are and where they come from
because so much of that is contained within the music. It’s a way for us to
understand ourselves. And, I think, the reason I
say that is because that’s been the case for me. I’ve understood so much
about my own family and I’ve learned so much
about my own kind of ancestors and people further back in
my family lineage who I never get a chance to know through
the songs that came from them. And so that strengthens
my sense of who I am and my sense of place. LAURA BAIN: Before
I leave Matthew agrees to play me one more
song, “The River Driver.” [MUSIC MATTHEW BYRNE, “THE
I was of the age of 18 when I went upon the drive. After six months hard labour,
back home I did arrive. I courted me a pretty girl. It was her who
caused me to roam. For I’m a river driver and
I’m far away from home. I’ll eat when I am hungry
and I’ll drink when I am dry. I’ll get drunk whenever I’m
ready and get sober by and by. And if this river
don’t drown me, then it’s all I needn’t roam. I’m a river driver and
I’m far away from home. I’ll build my lover a castle
upon some mountain high where she can sit and view
me as I go marching bye. Where she can sit and view
me while I needn’t roam. For I’m a river driver and
I’m far away from home. And when I’m old and feeble,
and it’s in my sickness lie. You can wrap me up in a
blanket and lay me down to die. And bring to me a bluebird
who will sing for me to roam. For I’m a river driver and
I’m far away from home. I’ll eat when I am hungry
and I’ll drink when I am dry. I’ll get drunk whenever I’m
ready and get sober by and by. And if this river
don’t drown me, then it’s all I needn’t roam. For I’m a river driver and
I’m far away from home. I’m a river driver and
I am far away from home. LAURA BAIN: Back in St. John’s,
Shelby is feeling rested and joins me for a cooking
lesson at Bacalao Restaurant with owner, Andrea Maunder. Andrea, we’re back here in the
nice, cozy kitchen at Bacalao Restaurant and I know
I’m really excited to try some Newfoundland food. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah,
I’m super excited too. So what are you going to
be cooking for us today? ANDREA MAUNDER: So we’re doing
two really traditional things. We are doing, what we
call, Bacalao fritters. So we’ve been making those
since we opened the restaurant 11 years ago. So it’s essentially
a fancy fishcake, which is a really traditional
Newfoundland thing. And then the next dish is
going to be cod tongues. So it’s really I guess
it was an animal, you’d call it nose
to tail eating. In this case, its mouth
to gills I suppose. LAURA BAIN: I’m excited
to try the cod tongues. I’m a little more of
an adventurous eater and I’ve never had them before. Don’t know about Shelby. SHELBY TRAVERS:
Yeah, I’ll probably be taking a back seat for
that and letting Frances step in for me. ANDREA MAUNDER: When
we’re talking about cod in Newfoundland,
when we say you’re going home to a fish supper,
we mean cod in Newfoundland. LAURA BAIN: Fish means cod. ANDREA MAUNDER: Exactly. LAURA BAIN: If you get
fish and chips, it’s cod. ANDREA MAUNDER:
Unless if you’re going to have salmon or halibut
or anything else at home, then you’d say
that specifically. But we say fish, we mean cod. SHELBY TRAVERS: All right,
well let’s get it started. ANDREA MAUNDER: So we’re going
to start with the Bacalao fritters. So what I have here ready to
go is I have my whole pan here. So I’ve got some salt fish
that I’ve already poached off. So just simply poached
off with a few peppercorns and little bay leaf, just
to add a little something interesting in the background. The potato, I just
boiled in the skin so that way it didn’t pick
up too much moisture content. And mashed it. I have some lemon zest
here in the bowl, so just the zest of the lemon. I have some garlic chopped
up, a little lemon juice, and I have the
Newfoundland savoury. And so the onion is
the other ingredient. And I’m just going to
turn on my pan here. There we go, got my fire. And I started the
onion a little bit earlier just to sweat it
down and start the process. There we go. And the great thing about
savoury is that anything that’s got butter or a little
bit of fat is going to pick up the flavour or savoury
so much better. SHELBY TRAVERS: Soaks it up. ANDREA MAUNDER: Exactly,
and distributes it. So I’m going to add that in
and I’m just squeezing it between my fingers a little bit. I’m going to add a little
kosher salt in there. And I’m going to put
that right in the fat because I’m going to incorporate
that all into the potato and the fish anyhow. I’m going to add a
little bit of garlic. SHELBY TRAVERS: Never too
much garlic, in my opinion. LAURA BAIN: I 100%
agree with you. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah. ANDREA MAUNDER: And then I’m
going to add in my lemon zest. And again, the oils in that
are really going to get picked with the oil in the
pan, the fat in the pan. I’m not going for
colour the onions. I really just want them
to sweat down and soften. I don’t want them to be brown. I’m going to transfer
that to my bowl here. We scrape out all that
delicious goodness. I’m going to add a little
freshly cracked pepper just for some flavour. I’m going to
crumble in the fish. I want to break it up
so that it blends nicely but I don’t need it to
be completely mushy. So all I would do is form it
so it’s sort of like a football shape. LAURA BAIN: OK. ANDREA MAUNDER: Yeah. And so about-well, as
big as the palm of my hand. I don’t have real big hands but
a little smaller than an egg probably. And then I would roll
that in panko and fry it. So now we’ll go on to the
next dish, the cod tongues. So I have them here and
there’s a few varying sizes. I mean, I’ve seen some that
are the size of a small plate. Most people prefer
the smaller ones because they are just
tastier and crispier. LAURA BAIN: The other
ones, they get like chewy? ANDREA MAUNDER:
They can be, yeah. They take a little
longer to cook. LAURA BAIN: They look
just like tongues. They’re actually-they’re
like, a little bit bigger than I thought. ANDREA MAUNDER: These
are quite small. LAURA BAIN: Like, a
good like, two inches. ANDREA MAUNDER: They are
and then the littlest ones are maybe an inch or so. Inch or so square. Simplest preparation
for these is best just salt, pepper, and flour. SHELBY TRAVERS: Let the
tongue speak for itself. ANDREA MAUNDER: Yeah, exactly. And then they’re traditionally
served with scrunchions, which is fried, salted pork fat. And so they start off looking
sort of white and fatty. And they’re probably double
the size or maybe triple. And then when they’re fried
down, they get very crisp. So you’re welcome to taste one. LAURA BAIN: OK, sure. Basically kind of like bacon? ANDREA MAUNDER: Yeah, yeah. They’re just sort
of salty and crispy. They’re really good. LAURA BAIN: That’s good. ANDREA MAUNDER: Yeah. It’s Newfoundland health food. LAURA BAIN: Is it pretty common
for people you eat cod tongue? Like, would it just be mostly
in restaurants or would people eat them at home? ANDREA MAUNDER: Oh,
people eat them at home. For sure, yeah. For little kids on the wharf,
that would be their job. As the fish get landed to take
them and cut out the tongues. SHELBY TRAVERS: After
our cooking lesson, we all move to the Bacalao
dining room for a tasting. ANDREA MAUNDER: So get
the chance to eat now. So we’ll start with
the salt cod fritters. I’ll just move those in. So we were serving
those with an aioli. And this is a malt
vinegar aioli. And Newfoundlanders
love malt vinegar with chips and
that kind of thing. So it’s kind of the best
of both worlds there. So go ahead and
take one of each. And add a little aioli to that. SHELBY TRAVERS: Probably
like two inches big. That’s what you
were saying, right? LAURA BAIN: Almost like a
falafel or nugget or something. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah. ANDREA MAUNDER:
And it almost has the falafel-y texture on the
outside because of the panko. So you’re getting
that golden brown. SHELBY TRAVERS: Would you
say that is a finger food or should I use my fork? ANDREA MAUNDER:
Use your fingers. Dig in. Just go ahead and clench away. SHELBY TRAVERS: 3, 2, 1. ANDREA MAUNDER: I can hear the
crunch so that’s a good thing. SHELBY TRAVERS: Mmm,
this is really good. ANDREA MAUNDER:
So you’re chasing a little bit of citrus,
a little bit of garlic in there, the onions. SHELBY TRAVERS: And the aioli
is really, really nice with it. ANDREA MAUNDER: Well, you want
that brightness with anything deep fried I find. You do want that acidity. LAURA BAIN: Salt of the cod. SHELBY TRAVERS: I’m going to
save this little extra bit for Fran at the end. ANDREA MAUNDER:
So the other thing we have is the cod tongue. LAURA BAIN: OK. SHELBY TRAVERS: All right. LAURA BAIN: And the scrunchions. ANDREA MAUNDER: Yeah. So I’m going to choose a
smaller one for each of you. Because you’ve never
had them before, it’s nice to go smaller. And then I just finished
those with a little bit of salt and pepper. You’re welcome to
the scrunchions. Although you both did try them. LAURA BAIN: Can we
just do sprinkles– ANDREA MAUNDER: Yeah! LAURA BAIN:
–scrunchions over the– ANDREA MAUNDER: Oh, yes. LAURA BAIN: –cod tongue? ANDREA MAUNDER: Yeah,
you really enjoyed them. So you go ahead
and have some more. And I’ll give you a little
squirt of lemon on yours. SHELBY TRAVERS: Perfect. I love lemon. ANDREA MAUNDER: You too. There you go. And just pop it in. LAURA BAIN: I’m going to
go with my fingers as well. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah. So this, I’m a little
more nervous about. ANDREA MAUNDER: Cheers. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah, I want
to see you guy’s reaction. LAURA BAIN: OK, you want
to watch me eat it first? SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah. LAURA BAIN: Mmm. I think it’s good. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah? OK. My turn. ANDREA MAUNDER: It’s just
tastes like a cod nugget. You know how they
do small pieces? SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah,
the texture is a little– I get the gelatinous. ANDREA MAUNDER: Yeah, there’s
that little bit of difference. In a larger one,
you’d experience that in a little
bit more of the way. SHELBY TRAVERS: Well, I did it. LAURA BAIN: You did it. And it sounds like
I get to finish off the rest of these cod tongues,
which is just fine with me. And we had a great time
tasting some local food. Thank you so much, Andrea. SHELBY TRAVERS: Thank you. ANDREA MAUNDER: Oh, my pleasure. Thanks for coming. It was really fun. LAURA BAIN: Shelby,
her guide dog Frances, and I are exploring a
province with some of the most dramatic coastlines in Canada. SHELBY TRAVERS: So, Laura,
we’re at Cape Spear. What do you think? LAURA BAIN: Oh, it’s
absolutely gorgeous here. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah, it’s
cool to be at the most eastern part in North America. And it turns out that I guess
this is where it all starts. The sun rises and the day
starts for North America right where we are. LAURA BAIN: I can
smell the ocean air. I can hear the waves
and the fog horns. It’s a little bit
foggy here, which isn’t unusual for
Newfoundland and Labrador. But it’s also nice
and warm and I’m excited to get out and explore
the trails a little bit. What do you think? SHELBY TRAVERS:
Yeah let’s go do it. You could spend
hours here walking the boardwalks and trails. And along the way there are
plenty of areas to pause and take in the sounds
of the roaring ocean. LAURA BAIN: Picture taking
opportunities are everywhere. Cape Spear is also home to
an iconic lighthouse, which is a national historic
site and the oldest lighthouse in the province. [fog horn sounds] SHELBY TRAVERS: We’d
like to stay longer but we need to head back to
the city for a Newfoundland language lesson. LAURA BAIN: We travelled to
Memorial University to chat with retired folklore professor,
Doctor Philip Hiscock. PHILIP HISCOCK: Hello. SHELBY TRAVERS: Hi. PHILIP HISCOCK: I’m Philip. LAURA BAIN: I’m Laura,
nice to meet you. SHELBY TRAVERS: I’m Shelby
with my guide dog, Frances. PHILIP HISCOCK: Nice-oh,
nice to meet you too, Frances. SHELBY TRAVERS: Nice
to meet you too. Let’s go inside. PHILIP HISCOCK: Come on in. LAURA BAIN: What do you
call the language from here? PHILIP HISCOCK: Well,
the main language that people speak around here
is English, that’s the main one. The version of it, the
variation that we see here from standard English
is usually called by academics, Newfoundland
English or Newfoundland Labrador English. Locally a lot of people call
it Newfinese, or New-fineese. And that term “Newfinese” is
really about 20 years old. SHELBY TRAVERS: Would you say
that this is almost something that people have pride in? That they speak like
this because they’re proud to be from Newfoundland
and it’s it’s own culture, similar to Quebecois? PHILIP HISCOCK:
Yeah, very much so. I’m in my mid-60s now and people
who are half my age are people who are using Newfoundland
intonations, accents, and dialect words
over and over again– regularly. And they use it in joking ways. So it’s often–
you talk seriously in your version of
standard English. But you talk jokingly
or intimately or celebratorily or drunkenly in
your version of a local accent. So yes, there’s definite pride
and there’s definite joy in it. There’s a joy in that
playing with language. LAURA BAIN: So
like, there’s going to be differences all across
Canada in the way that people speak and different words. But Newfoundland is really known
for being sort of an outlier. Like, really just
having a lot of it’s own words and phrases
and things like that. Why is it so different
from the rest of Canada or even the Maritimes? PHILIP HISCOCK: It’s true
that Newfoundland has some really good dictionaries. The big yellow one that I’ve
got here in front of me, The Dictionary of
Newfoundland English is really the best of the lot. It’s the scholarly one. But there are two or three
or four other ones around. The academic attention to local
language and other provinces I don’t think is quite as
extensive as it has been here. LAURA BAIN: Newfoundland is
a huge place, Newfoundland and Labrador. Do you see a lot of differences
in the language and the words that are used
across the province? PHILIP HISCOCK:
Yeah, and in fact that’s really one of the biggest
things that anyone who studies Newfoundland language
notices right away. If you only come to
Newfoundland and hang out in St. John’s or 50 miles
from St. John’s, you will hear a huge amount
of Irish inflected speech. If you go a little more than
50 miles, suddenly, foop, the bottom drops out
of that Irishness. And for the most part,
you’ll hear what’s really west country English speech. Those two groups
of people represent the main European settlement
groups in Newfoundland in the past 400 to 500 years. LAURA BAIN: I was actually just
talking to a friend of mine last night. And I said where do you live? He said, I live in Kilbride. And I said, what is it with you
Newfoundlanders and your place names? PHILIP HISCOCK: George
Story, whose book actually I’ve got here right
in front of me, wrote this great article
called “The View from the Sea.” And all about
Newfoundland place names. And he points out that both
Newfoundland place names were set in place by the
mariners, the people who were coasting along trying
to find places to stop. And the place names were
very much reflective of what you saw from the sea. So something like
Red Head Cove, it’s the Cove in behind that
the big hill it’s red. The red rock. Or Black Head,
same sort of thing. Or they were
connected to stories that people told about
someone who had died there. Oh, you remember that
place where Buddy died? You know, the Dead
Man’s Cove or whatever. A place like Dildo is
really quite interesting and it’s a big joke by visitors
who come and they want to– LAURA BAIN: Take a
photo by the sign. PHILIP HISCOCK:
That’s right, exactly. SHELBY TRAVERS: So where
does that come from? PHILIP HISCOCK: We don’t
know what it comes from. There have been six or
eight different possible understandings of it. The very best one– and this is the one
I believe to be true. Is that it’s actually an early
form of the word “doldrum.” Now, if you were sailing along
and you have to pay attention to the wind in a sailboat. If something is
a doldrum, that’s a dangerous place to get into. And it’s between an island
and the coast there. And that’s the doldrum. So dildo, likely, was named for
the lack of wind on the water out there between
what’s now Dildo Island and the town of Dildo. SHELBY TRAVERS: What
is the correct term to call someone that
lives in Newfoundland? PHILIP HISCOCK: Most
of your viewers, listeners will know
the term “Newfie.” Newfie’s been around
for a long time. I’ve tracked it back to 1937. But Newfie in the 21st century
has a really bad reputation among lots of people. It’s fighting words
for some people. That you call that
person a Newfie, they consider it an
insult. Because they see it as a diminutive. SHELBY TRAVERS: OK. PHILIP HISCOCK: Newfoundlander
is a real adult thing to be. Newfie is like a teddy bear
or something, you know? A toy or-so they
really resent that. LAURA BAIN: Yeah, I
know growing up there was always a lot
of Newfie jokes. And they would usually revolve
around someone being dumb. PHILIP HISCOCK: Stupid. Yeah, that’s right. Some people, they really
like the term Newfie. Some Newfoundlanders really like
being called and being known as and calling themselves a Newfie. And that’s because they see
it as a very positive thing. It represents their home. It represents family. It represents community. It represents simplicity,
connectedness to nature. A whole lot of things that
are built into the term. Ability to sing and dance and to
drink someone under the table. All those things, you know? And these are seen as
good and positive things. So it’s very difficult to
know just meeting someone whether they’re
going to like Newfie or they’re going to punch you
in the nose for saying it. SHELBY TRAVERS: Right. PHILIP HISCOCK: So it’s
a good word to avoid. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah, so if– PHILIP HISCOCK:
Newfoundlander is the word. SHELBY TRAVERS: Is the word? So if anyone’s coming
to Newfoundland, try and stay away from Newfie. Go for Newfoundlander. That’s just your safe bet. PHILIP HISCOCK: That’s right. Now, if your hosts are
calling themselves Newfie, then you know you’re
in a safe place once you get to that word. LAURA BAIN: I’ve
always loved listening to Newfoundlanders speak. The language here is just
a lot like the people– it’s really warm and friendly. And yeah, I love
the language here. And I love learning
about it because it’s really interesting to me
there are some expressions that you’d think
would be familiar because I’m not from far away. I’m from Nova Scotia. But you know, there’s
a lot of things that I have to say sorry. What does that mean? So I find it really interesting. SHELBY TRAVERS: After
our conversation with Doctor Hiscock,
it’s only fitting that our next
adventure is in a place with a quirky Newfoundland
sounding name, Quidi Vidi LAURA BAIN: Quidi Vidi Village
is a working fishing village within the city of St. John’s. It sits on the edge of the
ocean dominated by cliffs and a Harbour known as the gut. SHELBY TRAVERS: We
walk the whole village in about 10 minutes and end
up at the Quidi Vidi Village Plantation. The Plantation houses a handful
of local artists studios. The studios are open so you can
watch the artists as they work. LAURA BAIN: We meet up with
textile artist, Kerri Ivany. Hi, Kerri. KERRI IVANY: Hi. LAURA BAIN: I’m Laura. KERRI IVANY: Hi, Laura. How are you? SHELBY TRAVERS: I’m Shelby. KERRI IVANY: Hi, Shelby. Nice to meet you. SHELBY TRAVERS:
Nice to meet you. LAURA BAIN: So can you
tell us about the artwork that you make? KERRI IVANY: So I’m
a textile artist. I focus a lot in
embellishing materials by techniques of
hand-dyed materials and also freehand machine
embroidery embellishment. [sewing machine whirring] LAURA BAIN: Freehand
machine embroidery is like drawing with
a sewing machine. Kerri’s sewing machine is set
up so she can move the fabric and so in any direction. Like this map of Newfoundland,
which she sews up on the spot. KERRI IVANY: So these
two are patches. This one here is the
Newfoundland flag. It’s a Republican of
Newfoundland colour, so it’s green, white, and pink. I also got the freehand
machine embroidery of the outline of the
island of Newfoundland. This one here is a
Newfoundland dog. LAURA BAIN: Oh, I
know that tongue. KERRI IVANY: With
his tongue stuck out. LAURA BAIN: I mean, I
love the Newfoundland dogs and I know that Shelby is very
partial to Newfoundland dogs. SHELBY TRAVERS: I’m more partial
to the Labrador dogs, actually. KERRI IVANY: Really? SHELBY TRAVERS: Well, I
have a Labrador myself. KERRI IVANY: Right. Right. Well, Newfoundland and Labrador
go hand-in-hand now don’t they? SHELBY TRAVERS: Exactly. Kerri also shows us some of
her embellished clutch purses, made from hand-dyed wool felt. KERRI IVANY: So this one
there has an owl on it. And this one here has the
Newfoundland blueberries with a couple little leaves. LAURA BAIN: Can you
tell us about this place that we’re at, The Plantation? KERRI IVANY: Yes. So we’re here at the
beautiful Plantation. This is a space dedicated
for emerging crafts people. So we can rent space
for about five years with the goal of at the end
establishing a full time business here in Newfoundland. We get to make stuff
directly from our studio but also sell it. LAURA BAIN: Awesome. Well, thank you so much for
showing us this beautiful work that you do. And I think Shelby
and I and Frances are going to go explore some
of the other artists artistry. KERRI IVANY: Yes, please do. SHELBY TRAVERS:
After touring around some of the artists’ studios,
which feature everything from pottery to
t-shirts, Laura and I are ready to take a break. [music playing] Luckily, Quidi Vidi
has just the spot. LAURA BAIN: The largest
craft brewer in the province is the Quidi Vidi
Brewing Company. We meet up with one of
the owners, Justin Fong. JUSTIN FONG: So welcome to the
Quidi Vidi Brewery Tap Room. We’re in what used
to be a fish plant. So my family started
this in 1995. LAURA BAIN: And I
understand you’ve got beer that
we’re going to try, one that you’re famous for. JUSTIN FONG: Yeah, so this
will be our number one beer and our most famous one,
which would be Iceberg Lager. SHELBY TRAVERS: It’s never
too early for a beer. JUSTIN FONG: Awesome. Let’s do it. So I’m going to crack a
bottle of Iceberg Beer here and pour a few
samples for you guys. There you go, Shelby. SHELBY TRAVERS: Thank you. JUSTIN FONG: Laura. LAURA BAIN: Beautiful. SHELBY TRAVERS: So what can we
expect from a beer like this? JUSTIN FONG: So the
difference between Iceberg, the real-that thing
that makes it stand out is it’s made from
pure iceberg water. So you’ve got to
imagine most breweries and most beers are made
with just regular tap water. Iceberg water was frozen
anywhere from 10,000 to 50,000 years ago. So this predates like,
man and pollution and all that type of stuff. So it’s not what the
water tastes like. It’s what it doesn’t taste like. It’s super clean and crisp
and then no aftertaste. It’s just gone. So this is going to be a really
light, refreshing, summertime patio lager. LAURA BAIN: I’m getting thirsty. Cheers, guys. SHELBY TRAVERS:
Let’s give it a try. JUSTIN FONG: What
do you guys think? SHELBY TRAVERS: Definitely taste
that lightness, the refreshing. Can see how this could
be dangerous to drink. JUSTIN FONG: Definitely. It can get dangerous. LAURA BAIN: Yeah,
perfect on a summer day. So I’ve got one
question, which is how do they get the water from
the icebergs in to the beer? JUSTIN FONG: So there’s a
couple different ways to do it. We’ve got a guy with
a massive barge that goes out and harvests all the
iceberg water for basically Newfoundland. So we can fit about a
million litres of water on it at a time,
it’s a massive boat. He goes out and there’s
two ways to do it. One is with a massive crane. So do you remember that game– it was like in arcades
and it was like the claw that comes down and reaches? Well, picture a thing like
that that can actually pick something up and not have
it fall out of the claws hands. But it’s basically a
giant iceberg claw. So it goes over,
picks up icebergs. They bring them on board the
boat and then they melt down, it’s like probably
about an inch or two on the outside layer of
the iceberg to make sure it’s pure iceberg water. And then, the rest
of it is melted down and we get it-when
it finally comes to us, it’s actually melted
down as water. SHELBY TRAVERS: Wow. LAURA BAIN: That sounds like
a very rugged kind of job. JUSTIN FONG: It is. LAURA BAIN: But it’s
a delicious beer and thanks so much for
giving us a taste test. JUSTIN FONG: You’re welcome. Thanks so much for coming down. [music playing] SHELBY TRAVERS: Before Laura and
I get to our next Newfoundland adventure, I decide
to give Frances one. Get the stick. Come on. A swim in the Harbour
and a game of fetch. Good girl. Awesome work. LAURA BAIN: For our last
excursion in Quidi Vidi, we meet up on a breathtakingly
beautiful cliff overlooking the ocean with Lori McCarthy
and her assistant, Ally Blagdon. LORI MCCARTHY: Hey, Laura. It’s Lori. How are you? LAURA BAIN: Oh, hi. Nice to meet you. LORI MCCARTHY: You too. SHELBY TRAVERS: Shelby. LORI MCCARTHY: Nice to meet you. This is Ally. SHELBY TRAVERS: Lori
runs a culinary excursion company called Cod Sounds. That focuses on nature based
programs related to foraging and the food culture
of Newfoundland, which explains Lori’s and
Ally’s clever t-shirts slogans– “I’d rather be picking weeds.” LORI MCCARTHY: Always
say that people, welcome to the end of the Earth. This is such a spectacular
area of the province. We’re like right on the
edge of the cliffs here. There’s sea birds nest
all along these shores. This is the North Atlantic
Ocean and we’re just around the corner from
St. John’s Harbour. So we’re going to head
up this little trail here and I’m going to
take you up and we’re going to show you some
of the wild edibles that we’ve incorporated into
the cuisines in Newfoundland. All right, guys. Well, come on up this way. I’m just going to show you
one of the flowers that are in bloom now. And this is one of my favourite
ones it comes out nice and early in the season. And it’s blueberry flowers. LAURA BAIN: That’s going
to make blueberries, right? LORI MCCARTHY: It
will make blueberries. So I’m always conscious
when you’re picking, you never pick more
than a third of a plank. So if you want to
hold out your hand and I’ll give you a couple
of blueberry flowers and you can squish them up
and get a scent from them. And just have a taste. And they truly taste like
the skin of the blueberry. Wild blueberries in Newfoundland
are incredible they are like sought over. You know, it’s like the Nova
Scotia blueberries too, you know? And it’s a
longstanding tradition in our province to berry
pick in the fall of the year. LAURA BAIN: They’re just the
tiniest, whitest little flower. I never really had any idea that
you could eat them as they– like, I guess they’re blossoms. LORI MCCARTHY: They
are the blossoms, yeah. And then the pastry
chefs here use them. We’ll head around
the corner here and I’ll show you
another couple of things. So here’s the gin berries. LAURA BAIN: Nice. LORI MCCARTHY: So they
go from being a cloudy– so you can feel this one. You can feel this one. So they go from being
cloudy and hard– the green. So that’s the first year. In their second year– I’ll give you-they turn blue. So here’s a blue one. In the second year
they turn blue. And then, just squish them
and give that one a sniff. LAURA BAIN: Like, that one
cracked right open here. LORI MCCARTHY: And
that’s the gin berries. LAURA BAIN: I don’t know
what it smells like. SHELBY TRAVERS: Oh,
that smells like gin. That smells like gin. That’s coming from a gin person. LORI MCCARTHY: All right,
you know what it smells like. SHELBY TRAVERS: That
smells like gin. LAURA BAIN: Yeah, it
smells like a long day. SHELBY TRAVERS: Smells
like it needs a lime. LORI MCCARTHY: So
I’ll make like again, salts and stuff with those. And they’re really
good on wild game. I’ll dry them and crush them
up into a mortar and pestle. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah. LORI MCCARTHY: And
then we’ll use them in all kinds of cooking. Excellent on red meat. SHELBY TRAVERS: Guess
Frances wants some too. LORI MCCARTHY: Hello, Frances. Here we go, guys, we’ll
head on out the trail. LAURA BAIN: Frances, toe. SHELBY TRAVERS: Big
winds off the water cancel Laurie’s beach
fire cooking plans for us. LORI MCCARTHY: Get
three beers, please. BARTENDER: Yeah, absolutely. SHELBY TRAVERS: But
her plan B is all right with Ally, Laura, and I. LORI MCCARTHY: Hey, guys. There you go. So this is a local India beer. And you have an India. Cheers, guys. LAURA BAIN: Cheers. SHELBY TRAVERS: That’s exactly
what we need on a sunny day. So we’re in the beer
garden at Mallard Cottage. In Newfoundland, we call
it a savage wind down. So we didn’t give
it light a fire, so I got you the
next best thing. Mallard Cottage is known
for wicked local cuisine and incorporating all
of the local goodies. So we’ve got some
carrots here and hummus. And we’ve got some fish tacos. So we’ll eat up and
we’ll chill out. LAURA BAIN: Smells great. Sounds good. LORI MCCARTHY: Great. It’s been awesome to
have you guys out today. SHELBY TRAVERS: I
had like one question I wanted to ask
you because I mean, obviously you know
there is all this type of foliage and natural resources
that are out there that can really complement things. But I feel like
not a lot of people know why they should
care about it. Can you speak from
someone like has your experience why
should everyone care about this type of thing? LORI MCCARTHY: To me, it
brings it all back to the land. And when you grow up here
and grow up in our family, like I did, it truly teaches a
sense of respect to the land. SHELBY TRAVERS: For sure. LORI MCCARTHY: And from my
generation, my grandparents’ generation, you learn that
from living off the land and eating from it
and giving back to it. And for us and for me,
that’s why I do what I do. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah,
I think we really got to experience that here, Laura. LAURA BAIN: Yeah, absolutely. I want to know where the
name Cod Sounds come from. What does that mean? LORI MCCARTHY: Cod Sounds is
actually a part of the fish. They’re a deli-it’s a
membrane, it’s a piece of skin. It’s like a air
bladder up in the fish. And they use it like a lung. And it’s used for buoyancy. So in my grandfather’s
time, they used to keep the salted sounds. They would salt them
and then they would– you’d eat them all around. It was a delicacy here. LAURA BAIN: Well,
thanks a lot, Lori. Thanks a lot, Ally. We had a great time. SHELBY TRAVERS: Yeah
this was awesome. Let’s dig into some
food and some beer. LORI MCCARTHY: That sounds good. [music playing] LAURA BAIN: Well, our time
in this beautiful province is coming to a close. But we’re standing on a dock,
it’s a grey foggy evening, and we can hear a
kitchen party behind us, which is very appropriate. I don’t know about you, Shelby,
but I had an absolutely amazing time here. And I think some
of the highlights for me were the
music and the people. What about you? SHELBY TRAVERS: You know,
Laura, just meeting you. Being that you know, AMI female
power team between you, me, and Frances, I think that’s
got to be one of my favourites. But close second, I definitely
loved the boat tour. I acted like a total dork on it. But just riding those
waves, riding the boat. Being on the
Atlantic Ocean, that was something I really
wanted to experience. See the differences between
the Pacific and the Atlantic. But I mean, did make
us a little nauseous. LAURA BAIN: Well, I had a
great time working with you too and Frances. And you know what I
hear is good for nausea? SHELBY TRAVERS: What’s that? LAURA BAIN: Screech. SHELBY TRAVERS: Oh, well,
we’re in the right place. LAURA BAIN: Let’s
go get a drink. SHELBY TRAVERS: All right. [music playing] NARRATOR: Hosts, Laura
Bain, Shelby Travers. Producer, Wendy Purves. Videographers, Andrew
Pickup, Darcy De Toni. Editors, Andrew Pickup,
Miriam Bakhtiar. Integrated Described Video
Specialist, Ron Rickford. Production Supervisor,
Janice Sivitilli. Senior Producer,
Jennifer Johnson. Director Production, Cara Nye. Director Programming
AMI TV, Brian Perdue. Vice President Programming
and Production John Melville. President and CEO
David Errington. Copyright 2018,
Accessible Media Inc. [music playing]

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