Kitty Talks Dogs: grooming Max the Poodle | TRANSGROOM


Today we’re going to groom Max. Max is a medium-sized poodle
and he’s in the second puppy clip. This is a very famous way of grooming the poodles. Hello everybody! This is Kitty for Transgroom TV and
today we’re going to groom max. Max is a medium sized poodle
and he’s in the second puppy clip. The second puppy clip is a clip like a lion clip. It’s not with a shaved bum,
it’s also with a scissored bum. The front of the head is meant to be
going in a top knot here in the front and then everything is pushed upwards. At the dog shows many poodles
are styled in the second puppy clip because this is a very famous
way of grooming the poodles. First we’re going to do some brushing. Here you see me using the Yento tangle teaser. This is a very good brush for difficult coats. And you see me line brushing. That means I’m just letting the
dog rest while he’s lying down. And line per line I’m brushing so I’m sure I have
every single hair covered before I start washing. Here I’m using The Stuff because here
and there he has a little tangle in his coat. To make sure everything is correctly done before
he goes into the bath I’ve used a little bit The Stuff. That’s going to make it easier
to brush all the tangles away. Here you see Gloria helping me out. You see me cutting the wrapping
bands with this special scissor. I make sure I have each single band on one of my
fingers and then I look carefully so I don’t cut hair. The bands are necessary to protect the coat. So, we band the coat because then it
stays nicely inside the rubber bands and it’s protected and it can
grow and it can come really long. If you ever decide to use rubber bands on your
poodle you have to be very careful for the ears. When you do the ears the rubber band on
the ears you have to stick your finger through so you are very sure that you don’t put the
elastic band on the ear itself, so below the ear. Before we can bathe we have to
do all the work with the clippers. Here I’m using the Heiniger Stylemidi clipper. It’s very easy with this clipper
because you can adjust the length and this is at the shortest length possible. Here you see me holding the two outer fingers, pushing them towards, not with
not too much pressure of course and then I can easily scoop out
all the hair between the pads. The first thing I do when I shave the feet is:
I make everything short and I stop here at the line. Where is the line? Well, actually it’s
where the pads start at the back. I create a line from the pads
to the front and to the other side. So I can’t really go too high because it’s at the same length or at the
same height as the black pad at the bottom. After I’ve done all the front then I
start doing in between each finger. And I’m careful. I go in between my clipper but here I stop and then I go and do the other side. Nicely with my fingers I open the toes to
go in between and always against direction. Here you see me start to do the muzzle. And for the muzzle I always
like a horizontal line of course. I take my hand like this to the dog and
everything before my hand I do against direction. And here I’m using the Heiniger clipper. I’m using a 15 blade. You can use a 15 blade on show dogs
or on dogs who have a lot of hair and on dogs who don’t have any skin problems. If you have a white dog or a pet
dog it’s better to use a 10 blade. A 10 blade is a little bit longer. A 15 blade is very short. But if you don’t have problems or skin
problems, it doesn’t matter, it can be short. It’s important to me that around the
ears also all the hair is disappeared. It’s nice and clean so the air can go into the ears. It’s also good because the more air that can go into
the ears the less chance the dogs have ear infections. As you can see I’m going against direction of the coat. And here you see me with my finger. I’m stretching the lip up and with my
thumb I was pushing down the skin. Then at the bottom of the lips
you can easily shave this part. You also have to be very careful if you clip
around that area that you keep the mouth closed. Because it’s very quickly the dog puts his tongue out. And the tongue goes in between the clipper blades
and you can hurt the tongue very badly that way. So, always, if you clip around the lips
make sure the dog’s muzzle is nicely closed. And here you see me going below the line. And everything that’s below the line is
with the direction of the coat growth. Here I’m explaining the line. Everything is
against and everything below there is with. Now we’re doing the tail. The tail I’m doing with the 10 blade. And I’m going against direction with the 10 blade. To avoid having a bald tail we do it with a 10 blade. I really like to go very short where the tail starts. So when I start scissoring the back
and angulation area it’s nice and clean. And I can just put my scissors on there
and it’s correct and I can make a nice style. Here I’m lifting up the back legs
to do the tummy and the genitals. So once I start scissoring I don’t have to worry
anymore about sticking out hair from down below. Here we go clipping the nails. It’s a show dog. Dog’s nails must be quite short. I’m using the Show Tech Guillotine because with this nail clipper you can slice
off a millimeter at the time to go really short. Let’s do some bathing. As Max is a show dog and he needs scissoring I’m using the Squeaky Clean
shampoo from Fraser Essentials. I’m using the Big Volume
shampoo as the second shampoo. And then I’m going to use the Big Volume conditioner. I’m using the squeaky clean shampoo to neutralize
all the liquids that have been used on Max. And the Squeaky Clean shampoo from Fraser
is also a shampoo that washes very correctly. It degreases very correctly. And it makes that all the impurities go away. It just gives you a very nice clean
finish and it’s perfect for scissoring. If max wouldn’t have been scissored today I would have used Fraser Essentials
Nurturing shampoo and Nurturing conditioner. Because these have more oils in them. They are heavier oils for protecting
the coat between the shows. It’s also a little bit more oils and that’s
one of the reasons I didn’t use it now. Because I need to scissor and I need to
have the volume and the squeaky-ness. So I decided to use the Big Volume today. As you can see with this shampoo
immediately you have a very nice lather. I’m washing the whole body
first before I touch the head. I do this because if I do the head the last bit I’m not risking to have shampoo in the dog’s eyes. As you can see now I’m doing the head the last bit. Max is eating shampoo, look at that! So let’s quickly rinse it. That’s one of the reasons I avoid
doing the head with everything. I like to do it really the last bit
and then rinse immediately. Max is half his size when he’s wet. He’s very well behaved. I don’t want to take any risks of
dogs jumping out of the bath when I have to turn around to get
some shampoo, to do something. I really like to put a leash on them.
You never know. No risks. This is the second shampoo. The first shampoo was the Squeaky Clean and
the second shampoo is the Big Volume shampoo I like to have a firm grip when I’m washing. That means that I’m not doing
only this but I’m really gripping. And when I do the the legs and the
feet and even in between the toes I like to really have a nice grip. Because the skin is actually also very dirty and greasy. Because a poodle creates a lot of grease. And it’s very important to me
that also the skin is well washed. So don’t be afraid to give a
firm grip when you’re washing. So here you see me rinsing the head. It’s important that the water doesn’t get into the nose. So around the eyes: yes. If there’s some water in the eyes, it really
doesn’t matter, but no water in the nose. You have to make sure the
temperature of the water is lukewarm. It’s just below the body temperature. When I’m rinsing I like to push all the
lather and the foam away with my free hand. And then it’s not slippy anymore, it’s squeaky. And that means when you want to go over it, you stop. Like squeak, squeak, squeak. And then it’s fine to do the next step. I’m ready for my conditioner. I’m here using approximately three
spoons on a half a liter of water and I’m mixing it with the
lukewarm water with the sponge. The conditioner puts a nurturing
layer on the skin and on the coat. And therefore it will be easier for drying. It will be easier for brushing. It will be easier for the maintenance of your dog. If you want to have a perfect coat this
needs to be done every single week. And then you won’t have any mats.
You won’t have any tangles. The hair will be protected because each time you wash and you give a conditioner you nurture the coat and you protect
the coat and the coat can grow. Here you see me using the magic towel. This is because I won’t use the blaster for this dog. The magic towel is a very fantastic tool to use
to go quickly, to get a lot of water out of the coat. It absorbs probably three times
as much water as a normal towel. If you want to use the magic towel for your
salon, you can, just by using a bucket with Dettol and each time you used it you have to rinse
it in the Dettol to make sure it’s disinfected. So let’s do some drying. As Max is a show dog it should
be easy to dry him lying down. That way he can relax. If you want to get your dog used
to being groomed lying down You have to get it used to lying down when it’s a puppy. And then it’s very easy and fun to work this way. So I’ve put a towel on all the wet bits to make
sure the warm air doesn’t dry the wet bits. Because it’s important the dog goes from
wet to dry under the dryer with the slicker. We actually pull the curls out of
the coat while the coat is still wet. If the dog gets too dry you have to wet it
again to make sure all the curls disappear. Here you see me going a lot against direction. When you see the legs, when
you see the hair going zigzag it means that it’s not dried
or it’s not decurled correctly. So you have to keep on using the slicker
brush against direction with the warm air until you see a nice line. It’s very easy when he’s lying
down also to do the back legs. But Max isn’t very cooperative for the moment. I’m just letting him halfly lie down, that’s okay too. As long as I can do my work. The best way to do the legs is when you,
in your mind, divide the legs in four parts. You have the front, the two sides and the back and you do one part at a time. From the bottom to the top you do the front part. Then you do the side from the bottom to the top. And then you do the back from the bottom to the top. And this way you are sure you have all four
sides of the leg properly decurled and dried. Also the ears. It’s very important to do the ears correctly. I haven’t told you yet but I start with the
slicker brush, the long one, the tangle teezer. Because it’s a long coat and the slicker
brush is very good for long difficult coats. And then when I’m nearly finished
I take the doggie man brush. And the doggie man brush is a finer brush for
finishing, for drying, it has a very good result. Here we have half finished Max. And I’m very sorry for max but normally
I always do the ears before the bath. But you see even professionals can forget. I did forget the ears before the
bath, but it’s not such a bad thing. It’s just nicer to do it before. But if it’s after the bath, it’s fine too. So here you see me taking out
the hair from inside the ears. I’ve used the Show Tech Ear Powder
to easily take out the excessive hair. So I’m using the tweezers to pull out all the
hairs from around the ears and inside the ears. If you use the tweezers together with the Show Tech
Ear Powder you can take all the hairs out very easily. Sometimes it’s difficult but it makes it easy when you take
the below ear and you stretch it and then it’s easier to go in with the
tweezers to pluck out all the hairs. Here you see me using the Show Tech Ear
Wipe to make the outside of the ear clean. I’m just going to make a line at the top
line and do the first part of his top knot. So it’s just a loose top knot. And I did go three times around. Here you see me taking the half of the top knot and taking a small part of hair in the middle of the top knot. Then I’m holding the small part of the
hair from the middle and I’m pulling it and at the same time I’m taking
the band and pushing it forward. This is going to make a nice bubble. And then the next part. Try to relax, Max. I’m going to take a next part
and just make another band and also three times turning
the band around the hair. Here I’m dividing the hair from the ears
and then trying to have another band. For me it’s important to have nice and
clear clean lines in between the hair. And also three times. I don’t do it more or less. Because if you do it less the
bands are just going to fall out. If you do it more and the dog starts scratching it’s possible that you have breaking in the hair. If you do it three times around with a
miniature poodle or a medium poodle it’s fine. If you do a standard poodle maybe two
times, if you have thick hair, would be enough, but on average three times is normal. If you would turn it around five or
six times it would be very tough. The elastic band… As soon as the dog moves or scratches or
rolls on the ground you can have hair breakage. I prefer that the band comes
loose than the coat breaks off. So that’s why I only do it three times. And here you see me doing the middle. I take the middle from the front and the
middle from the back and I make another band. Here you see me getting ready to band the ears. It’s very important when you band the ears you feel the ear where it is and you
put the elastic band just below the ear. And then you can go through the ear with
the comb, with the point of the comb, so you are a hundred percent sure
the elastic band is not on the ear. if you accidentally put the elastic
band on the ear the ear will fall off and it’s a very very very bad thing. You know, it’s very dangerous. So be very careful with putting bands in the ears. And now let’s do some real
work. Let’s do the scissoring. Also with poodles I like to start in the front. First make sure the hair is nicely
brushed and nicely fluffed up. Brush and comb everything down. And I start in the front because
balancing the front is the most difficult. I start at the front of the front legs because
I want to have the dog as short as possible. So all the front of the front legs is short and then the back of the front legs is very long. When we have the leg, as you
can see here in the drawing, You have the front leg. The hair in the front is short. So actually you’re moving the front
leg towards the back of the dog. And then we do the same thing with the back legs. By grooming we move the placing
of the back leg more to the front and then the dog looks shorter. Here I’m doing the lines. And I’m going from the chest as much
as possible down in one straight line. No crooked line, no bent line, no banana feet. Straight, from here to the front
of the toes in a straight line. And that’s my base. From there then I can do all the other bits of the dog. But the base I take a long time doing this
because for me it’s the most important. Once I have the straight line I cut
here at the chest, at neck of the dog. When I see it from the profile I see
the nice rounding of the whole chest. Where the ear is I make it short here
so I have the curve of the chest. Here you see me scissoring, combing, scissoring,
combing, scissoring, combing and repeat. And I will do this until all the
hair is straight and nicely finished. I leave as much as possible the legs on the table. So I don’t really pick the legs up to groom the legs because if I do that it goes wrong. Then I have bent legs instead of straight legs. So that’s why I preferably leave the dogs with
the feet, with the legs on the table to groom. You have many groomers who
can lift the legs up for grooming. But if I do that it goes wrong. So I don’t and I don’t recommend it as well. For me it’s very important that
here at the shoulder it’s quite short. Then for me you can really see the chest. Then you can still work on the front lines. On the front, you know, the vertical
line from the top to the bottom. For creating the best finish is actually
very much combing and scissoring, combing and scissoring. And when you use the comb it’s
going straight very deep in the coat. And all the hairs are being
horizontally taken with the comb. So at the top we can scissor it and it
can stay scissor nicely clean scissored. It’s the only way of having a very good
finish, by combing all the way through. You see me using the featherlight comb. This is a aluminium comb. It’s extra light and it has wide teeth
and it’s perfect for a second puppy clip. Okay here you see me doing the back. You remember what I said about clipping the tail. Now I can just put my scissors at the side of the tail. The top of the back legs has to be straight, quite wide and not straight but I mean level, horizontal. It just has to not be rounded. Just keep it straight. Then later we can do some rounding
off when you finish the back legs, but we start with a flat part. I’ve done the part of the top of the back legs
because I want to finish the whole body. Without doing the top of the back
legs I really can’t finish the body. So now I can see how long the
dog is, how thick the dog is and now I can continue doing the body. The body is actually everything
from the bottom to the top. First I did the front legs and then
I’m going to do the rounding. I’m going to do everything towards
upwards, towards the top line. So it needs to be round wherever way
you look at it, it needs to be round. if you look from the front you see round. If you look from the side you see round. And if you can’t do it with a straight scissors you can do it with a chunker. Sometimes it’s easier to use a chunker. It also has a softer finish and sometimes for modeling it’s just
safer or easier to use the chunker. And when you finish the body
then you can start the back legs. I like it when I take the back legs I
take everything from the back pad. If this is the pad, everything above the pad I like to really shorten that as much as possible and then I have a straight
line from the pads to the hock. And the hock is quite high from the poodle. Everything at the legs I make
very short, as short as possible. I don’t know if you can see it but where I’m
working now, at the bottom, it’s a flat area. For the tail I’m just combing everything to the front, turning the tail around, holding the tail between
my two fingers and cutting the hair off. Then I can fluff up everything and make a nice ball. And I didn’t do a spray up very
much but I sprayed up just a little bit to make the top line look perfect. I’m scissoring now to make sure he has a good top line. And as the top line from Max is
damaged I’m making it a little short because for the moment Max is not going to dog shows and we’re just taking care of the top line very well. We’re giving him extra products,
extra oils to protect his top line so the top line can grow back and
he is show ready in a few months. On the drawing I can also show you just below the tail there’s no extra hair. The angulation comes from the
bottom of the back legs and hock where there’s a lot of hair. And this actually makes the angulation. As well here, at this side, you can see that
the top of the back legs is a straight, flat area. And here you see me explaining that you need to go towards the front of the dog. Then you can take the angulation
with you to the front of the dog. Here I’m doing more of the top line. I’m doing it not with lacquer. I’m doing it with
the Thick and Thicker from Chris Christensen. I’m doing this because the Thick and
Thicker you can easily brush out afterwards. And I’m not really doing a perfect top line. I just need to scissor at the sides of the body and to do this I need to do a little
bit of a spray up, a light spray. I first did from the front to the back
and now I’m doing the front part again. And I’m doing the front part again from
the back of the front part to the front. And each time I’m combing
and I’m making a little layer. Each time I’m spraying with the Thick and Thicker spray. And I think also because the top
line behind the head is damaged I think I’m also going to cut a little bit off the top line. And now we can do some finishing. As the dog moves, I’m not afraid
of going back to certain parts. So the dog here was moving or I saw it
from a different view, from the front view, and I saw something sticking out. And here I’m going again, back to the back legs. Maybe it’s also a good idea to see the dog running, have the dog relax outside for a minute. And when you see the dog in movement it’s really
very important or the dog has to go to a dog show. If you see the dog move you
can see lots of different things which you wouldn’t see if the dog is
standing still at the table all the time. So don’t be afraid of starting all over again, going
over your lines and making certain things shorter. And now, with the hairs of the top line
fixed, I can do the sides of the top line. And here you saw me cut a part of the head. And I’m also going to do the points of the top line. That’s also going to be better
for making the top line grow, giving it some time to grow back. The last bits are happening. Here you can see the damaged top line. And I’m trying to scissor the little bits
sticking out so the top line can grow back. Here you see Max the poodle is nearly finished. I’m just doing the finishing touches, making sure it’s all in balance, doing some combing. Taking a step back is actually a very good thing. Step back, have a look from
a distance, from two meters. See what happens when Max moves. Just step back and see the outline. I’ve enjoyed working on max very much. Here you can see some pictures of Max the poodle. Thank you for watching the video. If you have any questions you’re very
welcome to write them down below. If you liked the video please give it a thumbs up and please subscribe to our channel. Thank you very much. Bye!

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